A Twisted Tasting

I really like people who march to the beat of their own drummer.

With that in mind, I’ve been wanting to try some of the wines from Twisted Oak Winery and winemaker Jeff Stai. Many of us in the wine blogosphere have gotten to know a little about Twisted Oak and Jeff (El Jefe) through the winery’s blog, El Bloggo Torcido, and Jeff’s frequent comments on other blogs.

Unfortunately, Twisted Oak wines have not found there way to my part of the world. However, the Gods of Good Fortune smiled upon me, and I recently received a box with two bottles of Twisted Oak 2003 California Murgatroyd and, of course, a rubber chicken.

When they are not involved in rubber chicken distribution, Twisted Oak produces an eclectic line-up of wines from varietals such as verdelho, albariño, temperanillo, grenache, syrah and petite sirah.

With a blog called El Bloggo Torcido, a wine called the Spaniard and a collection of typical Spanish grapes, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to determine that Twisted Oak has a decidedly Spanish flair.

Which brings me back to the Murgatroyd, this wine is a blend of 36% cabernet sauvignon, 31% tempranillo, 19% petite sirah and 14% grenache. This wine grabbed my attention partly because the interesting blend of grapes. It reminds me of some of the wines coming out of the Priorat region of Spain, which usually incorporate cabernet sauvignon and grenache, along with some other grapes.

On a side note, any wine named after the catch-phrase of a cartoon character from my youth automatically gets a few extra points in my book.

The Murgatroyd is a deep purple with lush aromas of blueberry, cinnamon and a touch of vanilla. The flavors are soft and round with blueberry,raspberry, mint, vanilla and just a hint of oak. I decanted it for 30 minutes of so before drinking, and it continued to open up nicely while we sipped it over dinner.

My intuition about the blend was dead-on—this wine is very reminiscent of a young Priorat. I’m also willing to bet it will gain even more complexity with a little more bottle age.

Most of the grapes for the Murgatroyd come from the Vallecito and Tanner Vineyards in Calaveras County, the remainder come from the Bokisch and Silvaspoon Ranches in the Central Valley. Because not enough of the grapes come from the same region, the Murgatroyd is labeled simply as California wine.

I wondered if this is akin to really good French wine that ends up being labeled as Vin de Pays (which several of my favorite French wines are). So, I put the following questions to Jeff via e-mail:

Me: Since you know the source of the grapes, why is it labeled as a California wine?

El Jefe: Two of the vineyards are in Calaveras, and two of the vineyards are in Lodi. Since Lodi is not in the Sierra Foothills, we had to go with California. To call it Calaveras we would have to have a higher percentage of Calaveras fruit in it.

Me: What are your thoughts about labeling a high-quality wine with the California designation?

El Jefe: I don't think there is anything deeply wrong with it (I think it is a nice state), but I would prefer not to. It helps that we are up front with the blend and vineyards, and that the wine is popular and it tastes good. Future vintages will be "Calaveras County" AVA!

I always wondered if having to use the California designation on more expensive wines was a bit of a “black-eye.” It certainly doesn’t bother me, but I’m sure some wine buyers associate the California designation with cheap, mass-produced wines.

In any case, Twisted Oak Winery is a great example of what I hope will be the next wave of California wineries: wineries that produce interesting and different wines from grape varieties they are passionate about and not just the “grape du jour.”

Another bit of related good news—Jeff informs me that hopefully I’ll be able to buy Twisted Oak wines down here in the South before to long.

And you can’t beat that with a rubber chicken.

From the Gutter to Cloud 9

Even though I couldn’t make it to the 16th Annual Zinfandel Festival (which for me would be the equivalent of nirvana), I did get a chance to enjoy a really smokin’ good bottle of zin recently.

I realized when I began this posting that I haven’t written anything about zinfandel thus far. It’s odd because I really love zin. Unfortunately, most of the zin that’s available in my price range is pretty uninspiring.

It’s ironic that such a humble grape now commands such a high price. I’ve had some decent zins in the $15 range, but to get something really interesting, $20 is something of a starting point.

Which is why I relished every sip of the Cloud 9 Winery Seity Zinfandel 2003. It isn’t exactly cheap—$30-ish retail, and I had it at a restaurant, so it was even pricier—but it was worth every penny.

The grapes are sourced from the Seity Vineyard in Amador County, which is one of the best (if not the best) areas for zin growing. Instead of paraphrasing from the winery’s Web site, I’ll let them do the “talking:”

"Seity is Cloud 9’s first vineyard-designated wine - from a vineyard that unquestionably epitomizes Cloud 9’s drive for quality and distinctiveness. This 10-acre vineyard is home to the oldest Zinfandel vines on Earth, with proof of existence dating to 1869 when the vineyard was listed as a descriptor on a deed from the U.S. Geological Survey. The roots plunge to a depth of nearly 20 feet, passing through multiple soil layers and adding unique flavor components and complexity that can only be found in such a historic vineyard. Lying on a north-facing slope in the Sierra Foothills, the vineyard flowers and ripens later than most and is typically the last vineyard to be harvested in Amador County. The colder temperatures result in increased pigmentation build-up – creating a dark red wine with intense flavors, including chocolate and coffee – two endemic characteristics of this unique vineyard."

Are you drooling yet? I know I am.

The aromas explode out of the glass: strawberry, raspberry, tea, vanilla and spice. On the palate, the flavors are an enticing blend of red and black fruit, sweet spice, vanilla and, yes, coffee and chocolate. Then, the angels start singing.

Okay, maybe that last bit is a bit of an exaggeration, but that’s roughly how I felt.

It’s a shame zinfandel doesn’t get the respect it deserves. Alternately, it’s a shame that while it gets little respect, it’s still hard to find inexpensive zin that’s worthwhile. Zin makes the perfect pizza/burger wine, and for a chili fanatic like myself, it pairs very well with hot and spicy foods.

Any recommendations on good, cheap zin?

A One-Way Ticket on the Train

I’m sure you've been wondering where I’ve been.

Maybe you were thinking I’ve been exploring the cellars of Burgundy, tasting the last hundred years of magic from the finest winemakers with Eric Asimov. Or maybe I've been circling the globe as Michael Rolland’s personal assistant.

Sadly, I’ve been in a not-so-happy-place, besieged by work and stress. Things turned worse when I found out that January 24th is the worst day of the year. My life spiraled out of control.

Luckily, the amazing Ms. E found me napping between a couple dumpsters, cradling a half-empty bottle of Night Train in my arms, and brought me back to reality.

So, kind reader, don’t desert me now. There’s lots of good stuff to come: great wine, bad humor and…other good stuff.

January just isn’t my month.

Of Wine and Dogs

Wine is one of two subjects about which I can speak with a small amount of authority. The other is dogs.

In what now seems like another lifetime, I was co-owner/trainer of a dog training, boarding and day care facility. I spent two years—365 days a year, 7 days a week and 12 or more hours a day—with dogs. And that doesn’t count the pack of dogs I was living with at the time.

At first glance there doesn’t seem to be much similarity between these two subjects. The differences are pretty clear: one is a living, breathing animal and the other is a liquid (although Kermit Lynch would argue that good wine is also living). The more I consider it, however, the more I find in common between these two passions of mine.

The more you learn about wine, the more you realize you don’t know. The same can be said about dogs. The sheer number of breeds and various mixes certainly rivals the number of grapes, blends and wines. People have spent lifetimes breeding and blending genetic traits in search of the perfect dog, just as winemakers pursue the perfect vintage or cuvée.

Although I know very little about winemaking, I think there are some similarities between making wine and teaching dogs. Both require lots of time, patience and experience. And for those who master either trade, the results of their work can be breathtaking. Anyone who has ever watched a service dog in action should understand.

Both wine and dogs never cease to amaze me. There is subtly, beauty, grace, aggression, simplicity, complexity, strengths and defects to be found in each.

For an information junkie like me, there is an endless amount of knowledge waiting to be discovered on both subjects. And they both require hands-on learning; books can provide a foundation of knowledge, but can never replace the glass, or the leash, in your hand.

And just as each individual bottle of wine is different, so is each individual dog. No two Labrador Retrievers are carbon copies any more than any two syrahs are exactly alike.

I imagine these two passions will stay with me until the end. I can’t imagine a life without holding a nice glass of wine in one hand and stroking a dog’s head with the other.

That one in the picture is a Belgian Malinois Eastern North Carolina 1996. She’s a little funky on the nose, but once you get past that she’s warm, delicate and soft with undertones of neurosis and the suggestion of an impending bite.

I wouldn’t trade her for two cases of Château Lafite-Rothschild 1961.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #29

Welcome to Wine Blogging Wednesday # 29. Muchas gracias to Fork & Bottle for being the gracious hosts.

When I went looking for a biodynamic wine, the wines of M. Chapoutier immediately came to mind. I have a serious affection for Rhône wines and Michel Chapoutier stands tall (not in stature, but in reputation) as one of the superstars of the Rhône Valley.

He is also an outspoken proponent of biodynamics. All of the vineyards under his control are managed using biodynamic techniques, and he is clearly a man who respects the soil.

In “A Hedonist in the Cellar,” Jay McInerney quotes him as saying, “I am a soil discoverer.” Most of his quotes are peppered with references to soil, earth and terrior.

Apparently there are quite a few people who would describe him in different terms. The term “Napoleonic” has been tossed around. (The fact that he has a pronounced limp probably doesn't help.)

But whatever his quirks, he does make a mean bottle of wine. Unfortunately (or fortunately for my checking account), the only one of his many wines that I could turn up was the M. Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône “Belleruche” Rouge 2003 ($12.99). I was hoping to find one of his white Hermitages, but no dice.

It was far from a disappointing find, however. I drink a fair amount of Côtes du Rhône wines and so I am somewhat hard to impress. This wine definitely impressed me.

The nose was absolutely gorgeous—deep, concentrated and swimming with dark cherries, cassis and white pepper. The flavor was just as stunning—silky and rich with a nice balance of black and red fruit, a pleasant earthy note and finishing up with that white pepper I love so much.

The grapes for this wine are hand-picked, 100% destemmed before crushing and the wines is aged in a combination of barrels and vats. The blend varies from year to year, but as best I can tell this vintage is 50% syrah and 50% grenache.

So did it taste biodynamic? It’s hard for me to say. It tasted like a bottle of wine that someone made with a whole lotta love. And if they did so without the use of pesticides and chemicals, while also treating the soil with respect, then all the better. It certainly makes me want to seek out other biodynamic wines.

This Wine Blogging Wednesday has made me consider the importance of vineyard management techniques in the winemaking process. On a personal level, it also reinforces some of the home gardening practices I have adopted: not using pesticides or chemicals, using natural compost and selecting plants based on harmony within my environment.

Cheers, Jack and Joanne. Thanks for spreading the gospel on biodynamics.

"F" is for Friuli

I like pinot grigio. I’m not afraid to admit it.

I even like the cheap, quaffable pinot grigios that come in large bottles. Especially during our long, hot, South Carolina summers, when a reliable “porch wine” is absolutely necessary for survival.

I like Italian white wines in general, especially the light, refreshing, simple white wines like pinot grigio, Orvieto and Frascati (another F!). They don’t take themselves too seriously. Not meant for contemplation, they are meant for drinking and enjoying.

But pinot grigio (or pinot gris, as it is also known) does have a serious side, as Oregon and Washington wineries are proving now, and as Alsace has been doing for a long time. This mutation of pinot noir can make serious wine in the right place and with the right winemaking.

The place in Italy to look for good pinot grigio is Friuli, or officially, Friuli-Venezia Giulla. This is Northeast Italy, where it borders Austria. It makes sense that this cooler-climate area produces richer, more interesting wines from pinot grigio.

The wine I selected from this region was Primosic Pinot Grigio 2005 (Alfio Moriconi Selection, Total Wine & More, $9.99). It’s straw colored with a nose of apple, lemon and pear. It’s quite a mouthful for pinot grigio. Underneath the fruit is an earthy note along with some spice.

This wine is from the Friuli Isonzo, which is one of the numerous DOCs within Friuli. At this point, I have to make another plug for Italian Made. It is a very informative and cool resource about Italian food and wine.

Primosic is a family-owned winery, which produces some other whites, including another pinot grigio from the Collio DOC (another region within Friuli), a native varietal called ribolla gialla and a single-vineyard pinot grigio.

Friuli also produces some reds, mostly from merlot, cabernet franc and pinot nero. However, living in an area which doesn’t have a wide selection of Italian wines, I doubt I’ll ever find any.

And whatever you do, don't be the guy who, after I recommended a pinot grigio from Friuli, looked at the label and said, "Nah, it says it's fruity."

God, I don't miss retail.

"I Wonder What the Poor People Are Drinking?"

NEW YORK, NY--(MARKET WIRE)--Jan 9, 2007 -- According to the 2007 Luxury Institute Luxury Brand Status Index (LBSI) survey of Super-Premium Table Wines, Robert Mondavi Private Selection edged out Sterling Vintner's Collection. Raymond placed third, followed closely by Chateau St. Michelle and Antinori.

Wealthy consumers who know the brand rate Robert Mondavi Private Selection highest in delivering consistently superior quality and being consumed by those who are admired and respected.

(Read the entire press release here.)

Thanks to St. Vini over at Zinquistion for pointing me towards this information. Having worked retail wine sales, I can confirm that a surprising number of well-heeled customers prefer brands like Mondavi PS. Probably for the same reasons they like Outback, Starbucks and Borders—they know what to expect.

There are so many wine drinkers that just can’t bring themselves to deviate from their favorites. And while I can rant about trying new things—and Eric Asimov can write about it, people don’t change.

But that’s just fine with me. They can drink up all the Sterling VC they want. That leaves more Argentine malbec, Côtes du Rhône, white Bordeaux and all of the other, lesser-known wine bargains in the world for the rest of us.

For about the same $10 that a bottle of Mondavi PS would run me, here are two wines that I’ve had recently that put to shame most of the corporate wine out there.

Wishing Tree Shiraz 2004 ($9.99) – This is a blend of grapes from Western Australia and South Australia, which is another way of saying that they are from Somewhere in Australia. In any case, wherever they got them…those were some good grapes. I referenced this wine when I mentioned my affection for Aussie fruit-bomb wines, and for that I owe it an apology. I’m sorry.

While the fruit is both prominent and pleasant, there is much more to this wine. In addition to flavors of blackberry and cherry, there is licorice, a little smoke and a lovely aroma of tea. The wine’s firm acidity gives it a focused mouth-feel and keeps it from being flabby and overly soft.

Winzer Krems Grüner Veltliner “Reid Sandgrube” 2005 ($7.99) – Yeah, yeah, I know that I usually try to stay away from any wine that is “hot.” However, if the “hot” wine happens to be $7.99 and real tasty, I can make an exception.

This is a lovely example of grüner on the cheap. The flavors are reminiscent of apricots, peach, apple and Alpine flowers. It’s soft, refreshing and very food-friendly; it made friends right away with our sushi.

(By the way, I made up that bit about “Alpine flowers.” It does have some nice floral notes though.)

I was interested that Chateau St. Michelle was on the short list. For a big corporate winery, they crank out some seriously-good value wines.

Who You Callin' Fat?

Some grapes really are fat.

They can’t help it; it’s hereditary.

When it comes to describing wine, you can’t mince words. Some grapes are plump and round; others are lean and angular.

Merlot is fat; temperanillo is lean. Malbec is fat; grenache is lean. As with any rule, there are exceptions. Winemaking techniques can lend some curves to a skinny grape or can whip a fat one in to shape.

Mourvèdre is a big, fat grape.

I was reminded of this when I opened a bottle of Salvador Poveda Monastrell Toscar Alicante 2005 the other night. This is a serious bottling of monastrell (mourvèdre). Aromas of smoked meat, earth and plum billowed out of my glass. In the glass, the color is inky-purple. A sip reveals layers of plum, blueberry, baking spices and bacon held together by firm tannins.

And that was just the first night. When we returned to this the next night, some of the smoky, earthy notes had blown off, leaving gobs and gobs of rich, unctuous black fruit framed by those nice baking spices. Decanting is definitely a good idea for this wine, as well as a rich, hearty meal to accompany it.

This is yet another from my eclectic case. The label notes really caught my eye on this wine. I truly appreciate being given some basics about what’s in the bottle on wine labels. In this case, I learned this wine is produced from dry farmed vines in stony soil, and that it’s bottled unfined and unfiltered. Sold.

Mourvèdre by itself (it is more commonly used as a blending grape) is certainly not for everyone, but if you want to see this grape displayed in all of its big, fat, naked glory. This is a good place to start.

I Will Serve No Wine Before Its Time.

This recent article by Eric Asimov, put me in mind of two things:

1.) I am terribly jealous of Eric Asimov.
2.) Most wine enthusiasts reach a point in their disease where they begin considering keeping wine for aging.

Unfortunately, most of us aren’t lucky enough to have a large underground cavern. Hell, I don’t even have a basement in my house.

Cellaring wine can mean stashing a couple of cases in a closet, purchasing a wine storage unit or excavating your backyard. I’ve been reading about Dr. Debs' venture into wine cellaring (also slightly jealousy inducing) over at Good Wine Under $20.

My “cellar” consists of a stack of wooden wine boxes where I stash bottles that I think could benefit from a couple years of rest. The longest I expect wines to stay in “the stack” is five years. My one nod to proper storage conditions is that “the stack” is located in the most temperature-consistent, dark and quiet corner of my tiny bungalow.

Although I know I’m not keeping my wines in optimal conditions. I’m comforted by the knowledge that much wine is stored under less-than-ideal conditions and somehow survives.

I’ve mentioned my friend, Steve, and his large, improperly stored collection. He does his best to treat his wine right, but it’s hardly perfect. All the same, I’ve drunk some amazing bottles that were stored for a decade or more under those conditions. He’ll readily admit that he loses some bottles, but everyone who stores wine, even under pristine conditions, will say the same thing.

One day, I’d like to invest in some sort of proper cellar, but for the time being “the stack” will have to do. As a rule, I don’t stash expensive bottles, so there’s never much to lose. And since I’m not planning to keep them more than five years, there’s less of a chance that they will go bad on me.

All that being said, I am fortunate enough to have experienced the joy of drinking properly aged wine. There’s just nothing like tasting the magical effects of just the right amount of time and oxygen.

After reading Eric’s article, I remembered that I had a bottle of a 1994 Barolo that needed drinking. The last one I opened had turned bad, so I was fully expecting to send this one down the drain.

But, I’m an optimist, so I popped the cork, poured it in a decanter and went to work whipping up a simple red sauce with meat to serve over pasta.

The cork was in perfect condition—one good sign. The aroma coming out of the decanter was pleasant—another good sign.

The wine was Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo DOCG 1994. This isn’t an expensive bottling and ’94 wasn’t a stellar vintage (in fact, it was a lousy vintage). But someone recommended it to me, so I grabbed a couple bottles.

I didn’t store it either, but I know the distributor that did is one of the few around here that actually has a temperature-controlled warehouse. It spent around three years in "the stack."

So how was it?

It was lovely. It probably was a little worse for the wear, although I can’t really say because I never tasted it young.

The color was a light garnet/brick. The nose was all alcohol at first but gradually gave way to cinnamon, dried cherry and wet earth. The flavor was cherry, cedar, a little leather and some very muted spice. It went great with the simple, rustic pasta dish.

It was subdued, subtle and dignified. It was a really nice change from the boisterous young wines I normally drink. It might have gotten better with a few more years of age, but maybe not.

Luckily, I don’t stress over such things.

A Glass of Wine and a Bowl of Soup

Many years ago, a customer at the wine shop where I worked befriended me and introduced me to a whole new world of wine appreciation. I’m not sure whether to thank him or curse him.

Of course, I am truly grateful that Steve recognized I was a wine geek in the making. He had, at the time, a thousand-or-so odd bottles crowding every closet, corner, nook and cranny in his modest house. And he wasn’t afraid to share.

Everyone needs a friend like that.

I have previously mentioned him in this blog as the person who taught me that good wine need not be expensive, and conversely, expensive wine isn’t always good. He also pointed me towards a region that abounds with great, value-priced wines—Côtes du Rhône.

At the same time, he introduced me to the wines of Robert Kacher, who imports a great many wines from the Rhône, as well as elsewhere in France.

I was reminded of this last night when I was enjoying a glass of Domain de Coste Chaude Côtes du Rhône 2004. This wine is, to me, heaven in a glass.

It’s 70% grenache and 30% syrah, bottled unfined and unfiltered. It displays the bright cherry and white pepper characteristics of grenache with subtle notes of black fruit and spice from the syrah, all held together by an appropriate amount of acidity. That, combined with a reasonable percentage of alcohol, makes it extremely food-friendly.

My girlfriend and I enjoyed it with a steaming bowl of her potato soup. The acidity was firm enough to cut through the thick, creamy soup and the flavors paired together perfectly.

Although some estates are moving towards bigger, more alcoholic wines, there are still plenty of wines like this in the Côtes du Rhône—wines that lean towards finesse and subtly instead of power and bravado.

With many of these wines costing less than $10 a bottle, they are also gentle on your wine budget. The Coste Chaude set me back $8, less a 10% mixed case discount.

I’d also recommend that you look for the wines of Robert Kacher. He imports many wines in the under-$15 category, and I’ve been happy with his selections more times than not.

Thanks again, Steve.

A Trip to Italy

One of the wines I mentioned in my eclectic case was an Italian red from the DOC Rosso Piceno. I’ve mentioned before that I know very little about Italian wine, although, many years ago, one of my first discoveries from "Wine for Dummies" was that Chianti Classico Riserva represents an excellent value.

I uncorked my bottle of Saladini Pilastri Rosso Piceno Vigna Piediprato 2003 the other night and was promptly shamed by my lack of knowledge about what I was drinking. I knew it was 50% montepulciano and 50% sangiovese, imported by Winebow and Robert Parker thought pretty highly of it (WA 90).

A quick Google seach turned up an extremely cool Web site, Italian Made. Within seconds, I learned that Rosso Piceno is located in Marches, which is due west of Tuscany and right next door to Umbria. The vineyards are mostly located in the hills, ranging up to 700 meters above sea level, and montepulciano, sangiovese and trebbianno are the most common varietals, along with a local grape, passerina.

Italian Made is a goldmine of information about Italy’s regions, foods, wines and much more. It’s a great place to spend a slow day at work.

Not that I would know, of course.

If the Saladini Pilastri is any indication of what the other wines from this area are like, then I’ll be hunting down some more real soon. The nose was smoky and earthy with underlying dark berries. On the palate, it was more of the same, mixed with tar, violets and plum.

We enjoyed this one with some of my girlfriend’s lasagna. I was reminded that nothing—I repeat—nothing, goes with tomato-based pasta dishes like Italian reds. Not even Cal-Ital wines really do as well.

I’ll be exploring more of Italy in the very near future.

Molte grazie, Italian Made.

Happy 2007!

I hope all of you had a wonderful New Year’s Eve and are currently enjoying New Year’s Day as much as I am. Last night was filled with great food, great wine and great company.

As I mentioned, we dined on fondue. I used a very simple recipe using Emmentaler and Gruyère with the slight addition of some roasted garlic. For dipping, we had crusty bread, roasted Baby Dutch Yellow Potatoes, Granny Smith apples and thin slices of prosciutto.

A couple great wines accompanied this feast, both selected from my eclectic case:

Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling Finger Lakes 2005 – I can’t say enough about how well this went with the meal. It has loads of fruit balanced with zingy acidity and a long, complex, dry finish.

Torbreck Cuvee Juveniles Barossa Valley 2005 – this was a great choice for our meal, but perhaps not for everyone’s taste buds. It is entirely done in stainless steel, so the emphasis is on the fruit. Torbreck is definitely a winery to watch. We enjoyed a bottle of their Woodcutter’s semillion at a local restaurant recently, and it was fat, juicy and delicious.

We decided to save our New Year’s toast until today, so we popped a bottle of Schramsberg Brut Rosé. It’s 58% pinot noir, 42% chardonnay and 100% incredible. Delicate flavors of cherry and strawberry dance with melon, lemon and toasted bread culminating in a creamy, focused finish.

Not only that, but it’s a great match with BBQ chicken pizza. What more could you really ask for?

Best wishes for a happy and peaceful 2007 to all of you.

Welcome to Amateur Night!

Also know as New Year’s Eve.

All across this great land, people of different religions, ethnicities, sexual orientations and socio-economic status will come together for an over-priced buffet, open bar and a “champagne toast at midnight.” All for the low price of $75 per person ($140 per couple).

In all fairness, many of us will be attending wine dinners, small parties or very, very small parties involving two people, a couch and a bottle of something bubbly—wink-wink, nod-nod, say no more.

New Year’s Eve symbolizes much of what is wrong with the alcohol culture in this country. Not because it’s a booze-propelled frenzy of dancing with a lampshade on your head, making out with your neighbor’s wife and singing terribly out of tune. That sort of thing has been going on since someone left a pot of berries sitting around a little too long.

The problem is that too many people only drink a couple times a years, and when they do, they have no idea what they’re doing. Especially here in the South, drinking is an odd social taboo for so many. Lots of people do it, but they don’t do it well. Drinking means long periods of abstinence followed by occasional nights of overindulgence.

A great many ills in the world can be traced back to alcohol, to be sure. Drunk driving, alcoholism and violence top the list. But in this country, some of those problems arise because of the way society treats alcohol as a forbidden fruit/recreational vehicle.

The puritanical attitudes of some of our forbearers still drive the wicked image of any sort of booze. It wasn’t that long ago that alcohol was completely outlawed in this country. Some counties here in the South are still “dry.”

At least that’s the official story.

Don’t you know that Europeans had a good laugh about Prohibition. We kicked out the British, fought a war with each other and endured all the other trials of a newly formed nation, only to deny ourselves the right to drink to our accomplishments.

Predictably, the 18th Amendment was not a great success. People drank anyway; gangsters flourished; and down here, some good-old-boys made a sport of outrunning the law with a trunk full of hooch, now known as NASCAR.

Another result was the decimation of a flourishing wine industry. We can only surmise what the United States wine biz would look like today, had we not taken that asinine detour.

Thankfully, this country’s wine industry is once again flourishing and growing, despite our government’s dubious treatment of it. More and more people are coming to see a glass of wine, a pint of beer or a martini as part of a healthy lifestyle.

In my view (and not just mine), wine is the healthiest of those choices, but research seems to indicate that beer and cocktails in very moderate amounts are actually good for you. Or, maybe it’s just that the people who enjoy a drink after a long day tend to lead happier, healthier, more balanced lives. Either way, it’s six of one, half a dozen of the other.

I was lucky enough to grow up in a home where alcohol wasn’t demonized. I was allowed to taste beer and wine at an early age. There was no mystery to it. My parents also provided great role models for responsible drinking.

Although now I have a bit more of a bacchanalian attitude about drinking, I’m still very responsible about it. A glass of wine or a beer is part of my meals, as much as a salad or a loaf of bread. Anymore, I have no interest in a steak if there isn’t a glass of red wine to accompany it. It just isn’t the same experience.

And I only occasionally dance with a lampshade on my head.

I wish all the revelers that will consume a month’s worth of drinks tonight would spread those drinks out over a month and actually enjoy them. Instead of swilling André Extra Dry at midnight, they would sip a glass of Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blanc or Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d’ Aqui.

As for me I’ll be dipping fondue (thanks for the pot, mom) and sipping something really tasty.

It won’t be Champagne this year. Wine Blogging Wednesday #28 reminded me that the sparkling wine of this great post-Prohibition country is every bit as good as the noble wine from across the Pond.

And for you, gentle reader, I won’t ask you not to drink and drive, because I know you’re much too smart for that. Instead, I’ll ask you to stay off the road altogether, because of all the other idiots.

Have a safe and wonderful New Year’s Eve and I’ll see you in ’07.

A Few Thoughts on WBW #29

By way of introducing Wine Blogging Wednesday #29, I’ll offer a few last quotes from my recent reading material.

In "Adventures on the Wine Route," Kermit Lynch quotes lengendary Burgundy winemaker Henri Jayer:

"We tend to count too much on science, when, before, people gave importance to natural things. One thing is certain, the ancients were not dumb, and if they established a tradition it was because of their experience, They tried to eliminate unfavorable elements and preserve what worked best.”

Almost twenty years later, in "A Hedonist in the Cellar," Jay McInerey writes this about Biodynamic vintner Robert Sinskey:

"Sinskey attributes the new subtlety of many California Chards in part to a new appreciation for the vineyard itself, and a de-emphasis on high-tech interventionist techniques."

I hope modern winemaking is moving towards reduced use of chemicals and artificial fertilizers. However, I do sympathize with winemakers and grape growers who do it in order to survive. We need to find a balance that we all, and the planet, can live with.

In any case, I’m happy to support winemakers and growers who listen to the earth and the vines, and treat them with respect. So without further ado, here is Wine Blogging Wednesday #29:

Biodynamic wines hosted by Fork and Bottle

See you on the 17th.

And, I promise. No more quotes.

Nice (Wine) Rack!

I’ve been doing some wine reading lately, as previously mentioned. One of the things that jumped out at me is that two writers in a row made analogies between wine and women.

Of course, if women can be seductive, intoxicating, beguiling and often magical, with the ability to be soft or firm, subtle or brassy, gentle or acidic, then I suppose the comparison is apt. I might also add that both have the potential to leave you penniless and confused.

Here is a quote from "Adventures on the Wine Route," by Kermit Lynch:

"This all reminds me of an acquaintance who always seemed to have a new girlfriend. His girlfriends always had two things in common: huge breasts. His choices might be pretty or not, intelligent or not, interesting or not. Nothing seemed to matter to him as long as the breasts were enormous. It was such an impractical way to assess the quality of a woman that it began to seem almost perverse. And I have an almost identical reaction to those who go gaga over an inky, oaky, monster wine…."

We have all known that guy.

Another quote from "A Hedonist in the Cellar," by Jay McInerney:

"In the mid-1990s, the typical Napa or Sonoma Chardonnay had much in common with a vanilla milk shake or, figuratively speaking, with the reigning queen of Baywatch, Pamela Anderson."

I think the analogy is pretty clear.

I’ll admit that if I compare my taste in wine to my taste in women, there are some similarities.

If you were to line up all the women I have dated, you would be hard pressed to spot the common denominator. The same can be said of my wine rack, my music collection and my art (I use that term very loosely to describe certain objects in my house used for decorative purposes).

I don’t like homogeny. I enjoy the diversity that life has to offer and it surprises me when others do not. I want my wine rack to reveal the complexities and contradictions that define me as a person. Not to mention, I don't want to drink the same thing every day.

Who wants to live in a world with filet mignon but no cheeseburgers? Mozart but no Rolling Stones? Robert De Niro but no Three Stooges? Audrey Hepburn but no Sophia Loren? Screaming Eagle but no Tavel?

Apparently some people do.

"E" is for Eclectic

Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.1) - Cite This Source
ec·lec·tic [i-klek-tik]
–adjective
1.
selecting or choosing from various sources.
2.
made up of what is selected from different sources.
3.
not following any one system, as of philosophy, medicine, etc., but selecting and using what are considered the best elements of all systems.
4.
noting or pertaining to works of architecture, decoration, landscaping, etc., produced by a certain person or during a certain period, that derive from a wide range of historic styles, the style in each instance often being chosen for its fancied appropriateness to local tradition, local geography, the purpose to be served, or the cultural background of the client.

I’ve not been keeping up with my alphabetic romp through the world of wine. Of course, if I only focused on this endeavor it would be mind-numbing for me and a bit painful for my readers as well. So, I throw an entry in this category whenever the mood strikes.

I have been concentrating on grape varieties, but sometimes that’s just not practical. “E” is a good example—finding a good example of ehrenfelser, emerald riesling, elbing or edelweiss just isn’t that easy.

So, I thought it would be interesting to give you a peek into my wine cart. I consider myself to have eclectic taste in wine (after reading this you can tell me if I'm correct). What follows is a very honest representation of an average case of wine for me, along with a few words about why I picked each wine.

d’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier-Marsanne McLaren Vale 2005
70% viognier 30% marsanne. I love the wines of d’Arenberg, and this is one I have not tried. Plus, I love Rhone-style whites, especially viognier. ($11)

Torbreck Cuvee Juveniles Barossa Valley 2005
60% grenache 30% mataro 10% shiraz, from ancient vines. This is something that was recommended by my favorite wine merchant. Embarrassingly, I had no idea what mataro was. Duh, it’s mourvedre. Torbreck also has a great reputation. ($16)

Château Belingard Bergerac 2005
I don’t buy much Bordeaux, but I don’t want to forsake it altogether. For the price, this blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot looked worth a try. ($8)

Bodega Lurton Malbec Reserve Mendoza 2004
The Lurton brothers have provided me with many good bottles. They may be an international mega-corporation, but they make some great wines. The minimal fining and filtration mentioned on the label also helped me decide. I'm also a huge fan of Argentine malbec. ($11)

Horton Norton Orange County, Virginia 2004
I love Horton. I love norton. It’s a sentimental pick also, because I’ve been to the winery. ($11)

Salvador Poveda Monastrell Toscar Alicante 2005
Unfiltered, natural decanting, dry farmed, stony soil, dry climate, traditional fermentation—need I say more? When done right, Spanish mourvedre is spectacular. ($12)

Hayman Hill Meritage Reserve Selection Monterey County 2004
44% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 14% petite verdot, 8% cabernet franc, 4% malbec. I’m a sucker for California clarets, especially when they use all five of the Bordeaux grapes. Another recommendation from a trusted source. ($12)

Domaine Coste Chaude Cotes du Rhone 2004
70% grenache, 30% syrah, elevated vineyards, bottled unfiltered, Robert Kacher Selection. I’ve been a fan of Robert Kacher wines for many years. Knowing a little about importers can make wine buying much easier. ($8)

Lucien Albrecht Cremant D’Alsace Reserve Rose NV
100% Pinot Noir. The Albrecht family has been growing grapes in Alsace since1425, and is one of the most respected names in the region. Also, I must have bubbly on hand at all times. ($16)
(Note: this has been already been consumed. It's exquisite. It goes to show that you should always have sparkling wine in the house, just in case someone gets a great job offer at an unexpected time. Not me, of course. Congrats, E!)

Saladini Pilastri Rosso Piceno Vigna Piediprato 2003
50% montepulciano, 50% sangiovese, WA 90. Okay, so I still pay attention to Robert Parker’s ratings. I liked the description and I need to buy more Italian. ($10)

Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling Finger Lakes 2005
American wine growers all owe a great deal of gratitude to Dr. Frank. He believed in the potential of this country and New York State for making outstanding wines. I love his wines and this one in particular. ($11)

Celler Pinol Ludovicus Terra Alta 2005
35% garnacha, 30% tempranillo, 25% syrah, 10% cabernet sauvignon. This is handled by Olé Imports, which is an importer to watch. 60 year-old garnacha vines plus unfined and unfiltered equals yum. ($10)

I picked up this case right before Christmas, so the wines are a little pricier than a regular case, but not by much. My general rule is to stay under $15 with an average bottle cost of $10. And since it is winter in the South, the red/white ratio is much heavier on reds than if it were August.

We're All Winners

George F. Will recently wrote an op-ed article for the Washington Post commenting on Time Magazine’s selection of You as Person of the Year. For those of You who may have missed it, Time decided that bloggers and YouTube artists are the modern-day equivalent of Thomas Paine and Ben Franklin, and are well on the way to making the mainstream media obsolete.

Now, I enjoy YouTube as much as the next person…but that comparison seems weak at best.

Will isn’t impressed with Time’s selection either. He chalks it up to self-absorption and a culture of navel-gazing. A quick look at any random MySpace page or blog confirms that much of user-created online content displays all the depth of an ashtray.

I thought long and hard before I started writing a blog and had several aborted attempts, which I deemed not worthy of anyone’s time. Writing social commentary and opinion is something I enjoy immensely, but there are many others already doing it and most them are much better at it than I.

I created Brim to the Dregs with a very specific purpose: to write my version of a local wine column. There are two already in local papers that fit the traditional model of reviewing individual wines, but I felt like there was a need for a broader, more relaxed style of wine writing.

It’s worth mentioning that I have the credentials to aspire to such a goal. I have been a professional/freelance writer on and off for a decade; I have been an avid wine enthusiast for the same period of time; and I spent several years in wine sales.

While I haven’t developed local readership (hopefully this will come eventually), I have discovered the wine blogging community.

The wine blog world strikes me as the online version of standing around the local wine shop on Saturday afternoon, tasting wine and swapping recommendations with fellow winos. (Incidentally, that type of experience is the only thing I miss about retail wine sales.) The main difference is that we can chat with people from down the block, across the country or around the world.

If I didn’t read wine blogs, I wouldn’t know that there is riesling from Idaho, sparkling wine from Massachusetts and Ohio has six AVAs. Writing and reading about wine has reinvigorated some of the enthusiasm that working with wine every day had drummed out of me.

I read a variety of blogs and other online journals, etc. on a regular basis. Some of it is great. Some of it is mediocre. Some of it is just plain awful. However, the vast majority of the wine blogs I read are very well written and have a purpose. It’s not just a self-love fest.

As for me, I do my best to hold Brim to a high standard. One of my goals for 2007 is to take this blog to the next level—­better writing, more photography and a better layout. I’m challenged and inspired by what I read on other wine blogs, and I want others to feel the same when they visit my little corner of the blogosphere.

I think what the online community has to offer is community itself—a community that has no geographic boundaries­. Blogs, personal Web pages and the like offer everyone a chance to reveal a little (or lot) of what they are all about. For better, or worse.

But does that qualify “Us” as Person of the Year? I think not.

My vote goes to Paris Hilton. I luv her! OMG!!

Merlot Musings

I’ve read several recent articles about the “Sideways Effect” on merlot. The film’s demeaning of merlot has apparently caused some folks to take a second look at this oft-maligned grape.

The New York Times ran this article along with tasting notes on several merlots. They seem to think that Washington State may be merlot’s savior. The cooler climate allows for a better expression of the grape.

This would seem to make sense because merlot gained its fame in the vineyards of Bordeaux, which isn’t exactly noted for its warmth. Much of merlot’s disrepute comes from California merlot, which has been over-planted and vinified into plonk.

Even this association is unfair in my opinion. One of the best bottles of wine I have ever had was a bottle of Beringer 1997 Bancroft Ranch Private Reserve Howell Mountain Merlot. Although it has been several years, I can still recall the inky-purple color and the lush flavors of plum, blueberry, chocolate and mint. It was heavenly.

St. Clement is another Napa merlot that I've enjoyed over the years. While it is somewhat difficult to make a spectacular bottle of straight merlot (Chateau Petrus and a few others aside), merlot is a fantastic blending grape, softening tannins, adding roundness and deepening color.

I was reminded of merlot’s potential the other night when I opened a bottle of Domaine de Montpezat 2001 Merlot Prestige 'Les Enclos.' Domaine de Monpezat is located in Languedoc and planted in a combination of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals.

This merlot is no wimp. It’s dark purple with a nose full of black fruit and briar. On the palate, it’s a real mouthful of wine: deep, concentrated flavors of plum, blackberry, cedar and licorice framed by firm tannins. Even better, it's around $12, depending on where you shop.

It restored my interest in merlot.

This is yet another one of those wines that gets passed over on restaurant lists and wine store shelves. Although some of Montpezat’s wines are labeled as Coteaux de Languedoc, this one is a Vin de Pays d’Oc.

It reminded me of a woman who once told me that her daughter had visited France and told her to never buy anything with Vin de Pays on the label.

What a load of manure.

There are countless wines of excellent quality that come from vineyards that the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine has not deemed worthy of appellation status. This Montpezat proves that careful vineyard management and good wine making are much more important.

It also proves that you shouldn't take wine advice from Hollywood.

Shouts Out

As 2006 draws to close, I want to give props to some of the folks that have inspired and encouraged me along the way. I mentioned recently that becoming a wine blog reader has paid huge dividends for me. Here are some of the reasons why.

I have my girlfriend, E, to thank for reminding me about the great writing on nytimes.com, and I have Eric Asimov and The Pour for inspiring me to write a wine blog. Eric is my guru, and he proves that just because you’re very knowledgeable about wine, you don’t have to be a pretentious jackass.

Writing a wine blog when no one seems to be reading can a lonely, pathetic experience. A big thanks to Dr. Debs at Good Wine Under $20 for being the first of my fellow bloggers to mention Brim in her blog. The good Dr. has a great palate and seamlessly blends her enjoyment of good wine and good food.

Another early reader was Jeff at Twisted Oak Winery. Jeff writes El Bloggo Torcido, which has made me laugh out loud on many occasions. He is a winemaker with a rebel spirit and a truly Twisted sense of humor.

Speaking of a wicked sense of humor, I love the Wine Chicks and their irreverent take on the world of wine and wine sales.

Dezel at Virginia Vine Spot is a tireless, advocate of Virginia wines and a great blogger. Kudos for showcasing the wines of Virginia, which I love dearly. I am long overdue for a trip to the VA wine country.

I have Lenn at Lenndevours to thank for reminding me that New York State is no longer one of the “other” wine states, but one of the big dogs. He is also the brainchild of Wine Blogging Wednesday, which is a wonderful thing.

Tom Wark at Fermentation gives me my daily dose of wine industry reading. Tom writes a top-notch blog that is accessible even to people like me who aren’t quite as wine biz savvy. He is also a fantastic promoter for the wine blogging community.

Another top-notch wine blog is Vinography, Adler writes a blog that is a must-read for every wine drinker and his links to other wine blogs are the most comprehensive and inclusive.

Thanks to Wine Blog Watch for keeping me up to date on who has posted lately.

Of course, cooking and wine are a natural fit, so I have to mention some of the blogs that combine the two.

Culinary Fool was our kind host for WBW #28 and writes a culinary blog to drool over. She inspires me to get serious about cooking.

David at Cooking Chat is a newcomer to blogging like myself. Cooking Chat is a great read and full of killer recipes and great wine picks.

Tastes of Life is another new blog. Victoria is writing an excellent blog full of interesting wines and her thoughts on cheese and chocolate. Check it out.

And then there is Basic Juice, which combines wine, food, music, commentary and awesome writing. It’s a thing of beauty.

Of course, I’ve missed some folks, but you need to look no farther than my links to see who I’m reading.

Peace out and best wishes for a prosperous 2007 to all of you.

Francly, My Dear...

I am so very sorry.

I really can’t help myself. Bad wordplay is a curse I must live with.

Anyhow, I’m doing a somewhat unusual weekend posting because there is something in my glass I just have to write about.

I love cabernet franc. Maybe it’s my tendency to root for the underdog. Maybe it’s the cherry and spiciness. But cabernet franc occupies a special place in my grape pantheon. I love to see it in blends, and I love to see a bottle of straight-up cab franc on the shelf.

So when I saw a bottle of Preston Winery Cabernet Franc 2002 at the latest Mr. Friendly’s wine sale, I just had to have it. Preston is a family-owned winery in Washington’s Columbia Valley.

Unfortunately, their Web site is a bit out of date and doesn’t even mention a varietal bottling of cab franc. However, while doing the Google search, I did run across this interesting piece about cabernet franc being the new “It” grape in the Northwest.

The nose on the Preston is a mix of black cherry, pencil lead and vanilla. The flavors are more of the same with a certain smokiness and firm acidity. It’s a wonderful drink of wine and a great expression of the grape.

As a rule, I don’t like any grape being “en vogue.” Just like I don’t writers excessively putting words “in quotes.”

But if it means that more winemakers will focus their attention on cab franc, I can live with it. Another reason I have a special fondness for cab franc is that it performs quite well here in the Southeast. Both Virginia and North Carolina are having great success with it.

Speaking of which, I have a bottle of Horton Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2002 at home, which I’ll soon be tasting. It will be interesting to see how they compare.

Stay tuned.

WBW #28 and Hangin' with Kermit

The reports are in from Wine Blogging Wednesday #28 and the Culinary Fool has neatly compiled them for your viewing pleasure.

This was my first WBW, and it was everything I thought it could be and more. I’m honored to be in the company of such interesting and knowledgeable people. Other than the ego gratification of seeing my words in the blogosphere, writing a wine blog has made me a wine blog reader, which in turn has been a great learning experience.

And speaking of learning, I’ve been reading "Adventures on the Wine Route," by Kermit Lynch. It’s a fascinating tale of his journeys through France, tasting wine and meeting winemakers and growers along the way.

Although he can be a bit pompous at times, the stories are never dull and there is a wealth of information about the French wine regions. Overall, I like his perspective on wine and winemaking, especially his aversion to heavy fining and filtering. Seeing “bottled unfiltered” on a wine label frequently clinches my decision to try something.

He also makes an interesting point about the shipping of wine. He insists all his wines be shipped in refrigerated containers. I wonder how many of the wines I drink have been compromised by poor shipping conditions. The thought of a container full of wine sitting at the Port of Charleston in August makes me cringe.

Moore Brothers Wine Company, which has a location in my hometown of Wilmington, Delaware, touts that all their wines are shipped in temperature-controlled containers and their stores are as well (temperature-controlled, that is). It certainly makes sense, but there is the added cost to be considered.

It makes me even more militant about wanting more local wineries in the U.S. If the winery is a short drive away (or right down the street), there isn’t a need for refrigerated containers, not to mention the fuel expended on shipping.

Of course, I’ll always want wine from far away, but I’d like some local options as well.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #28

Drink a bottle of sparkling wine and write about it. That’s an assignment I can live with.

The bottle I selected was S. Anderson Blanc de Noir 1998 Napa Valley. I was familiar with S. Anderson because of their claret from the Stags Leap District, which I've found to be outstanding as well as a screaming good deal. Sadly, I'm not sure they still produce the claret.

As with their claret, this sparkling wine did not disappoint. It’s ironic that what drew my attention to this particular bottle was that it was on clearance. Knowing my local wine shop as I do, I guessed that this wine had been passed over for more familiar names, proving that it’s good to take chances sometimes.

I couldn’t find a geek sheet on this vintage, but the 2000 vintage is 100% pinot noir with 0.9% residual sugar and only 660 cases produced.

Upon hearing the gentle “pop” when I removed the cork, my anticipation grew. When I saw the gentle foaming of the wine and the color that I can only describe as "champagne," I began salivating.

The nose was a lovely mix of toasted bread, apple (not cheap-ass, supermarket apples, but really good, fresh heirloom apples) and pear. The first sip revealed more of the same, as well as delicate cherry flavors, a bit of nut and very nice minerality. As the wine opened up during dinner, the complexity grew, leaving me searching for more descriptors.

Two things really struck me about this wine:

1.) A wine like this proves that sparkling wine from California (and elsewhere) can give Champagne a run for its money and sometimes can flat-out beat it up. The complexity and elegance of this wine rivals Champagnes that I’ve had at twice the price and more. It was $19.99, down from the original price of $24.99.

2.) I relish discovering wines that others have passed over. While so many wine shoppers seem content to buy the same-old familiar brands, I have always looked for the oddballs and the unknown. That, to me, is the thrill of wine buying. If I wanted to always get the same thing—I’d buy Woodbridge.

Depending on your budget, this could be a budget buy or a special occasion wine. I’m proud to say that I drink sparkling wine quite often, so I frequently look for less expensive sparklers. I love how sparkling wine works with so many different kinds of food. We enjoyed the S. Anderson with sushi. Yum.

I also think that drinking sparkling wine on regular basis shows that you understand that every day is a special occasion and life itself should be a celebration.

Cheers.

I Have Returned.

When I began this blog, I promised myself that I would be diligent in posting regularly. Like with so many of my promises to myself, I’m backsliding.

The approaching holiday season and the trials of daily life have knocked the wind out of my sails when it comes to finding time to write. My only consolation is that I see a slowdown with many of my fellow bloggers as well.

During my sabbatical, I have, of course, stayed busy tasting, cooking and enjoying all the things that this blog is dedicated to, so I have quite a bit of material to cover. I’ll try to be brief.

On a personal note (which I do try to avoid), this weekend was one of remembrance. December 7th is not only a day of historic significance, but one of personal significance for me; it's the birthday of a departed friend.

The only proper way to remember my old friend was with a weekend of gluttony. That’s the way Big Sully would have wanted it.

One of my weekend indulgences was some traditional Southern food. I cooked up a batch of BBQ (the noun as opposed to the verb) and my little Jewish girl from Queens whipped up a batch of triple-bypass mac-and-cheese. It ain’t good for you, but it sure is good.

For anyone who wants a taste of real Eastern North Carolina BBQ (although I now reside in South Carolina, this is the real deal), here’s how:

Buy a Boston Butt that will fit in your crock pot. Sear it on your grill (preferably over a wood/charcoal mix). Drop it in a crock pot with a 12 oz. beer. Cook on low eight hours. Drain off half the liquid. Continue cooking another 12 or so hours. Drain off all liquid and pull meat apart. Douse liberally with Scott's BBQ Sauce. Cook on high one more hour, adding more Scott's as needed to keep moist. Add more sauce to taste. Serve on rolls. Stuff your face.

What wine do you serve? Zinfandel would be my choice, but any fruit-bomb wine of your choosing would also work. We enjoyed ours with a glass of Vinum Cellars Chard-No-Way Chenin Blanc, just because that’s what I felt like drinking.

Another one of my weekend indulgences was a treat from my girlfriend, the aforementioned Jewish girl. Although I don’t do it often, I enjoy the occasional cigar. When paired with a wee dram of The Macallan 12 Year scotch, I’m in heaven. The cigar I enjoyed was a new discovery for me—Rocky Patel Vintage 1992 Churchill.

Okay—this was supposed to be brief.

I’ll wrap it up with another new discovery: 2004 Ten Mile by Nine North Wine Company. This is a field-blend style red wine sourced from vineyards throughout California. One of the winemakers invloved is Jim Regusci, of Regusci Vineyards in the Stags Leap District.

Ten Mile is rich and lush with lots of dark fruit that caresses your palate like a fur glove. If you can locate a bottle, I suggest you give this one a try.

I’ll be back Wednesday with a posting for WBW. What a great excuse to drink something bubbly.

d'Arn That's Good!

Please forgive the cheesy title. Sometimes I can't help myself.

I have plenty of love for the wines of Australia. I’ll admit that I’m a sucker for some of the high-alcohol, fruit bomb shirazes that hail from Down Under. Piping Shrike and Wishing Tree are two of my favorites.

However, as with California, there are plenty of industrialized, character-less wines that fill up the Australian section of wine stores everywhere. There are times when I pass over Aussie wines because they can be somewhat predictable.

One Australian winery that never lets me down is d’Arenberg. The quality and character of their wines always seems to shine through. Among the larger producers, they seem to be marching to the beat of a different drummer.

Another reason I like d’Arenberg is that they produce a wide range of wines from the cheap to the not-so-cheap. If you have read previous posts, you’ll know which end of that range I’m buying from.

Which brings me to the subject for today: 'The Stump Jump'. This is d’Arenberg’s value entry in the “GSM” category. Australian growers have had great success with some of the Rhone varietals, and the grenache-shiraz-mourvèdre combination is a popular blend in the McLaren Vale, where d’Arenberg is located.

I won’t bludgeon you with the minutia of d’Arenberg’s winemaking techniques, but their Web site is a goldmine of history and information about the winery. They treat their grapes and the winemaking process with great respect and it shows in their wines.

I’ve had ‘The Stump Jump’ before, but when I took my first swirl-and-sip from the glass last night I was reminded of just how good it is. Its flavor is full of black cherry and plum with some earthy/smoky notes and a bit of white pepper. It’s also balanced and not at all heavy or cloying.

At roughly $8 a bottle, it’s an Australian wine that has a permanent spot in my wine rack. The vintage we enjoyed was a 2004, but I happen to know there’s a bottle of 2005 with a new screw cap enclosure on its way to my wine rack as I write this.

I’m confident it will live up to its predecessors.

The Future of Wine Sales

In this month’s Atlantic Monthly, there is an article on wine shops and the competition they face from chain stores, grocery stores and changing alcohol laws.

This past election, several states voted on measures that would allow beer and wine to be sold at grocery stores, convenience stores, etc. Not surprisingly, package stores and wine shops were opposed, and large retailers like Wal-Mart and Costco were rather enthusiastic supporters.

Here in South Carolina, beer and wine are available at grocery stores, big-box stores, gas stations and small wine shops/package stores, as well as large, beverage specialty stores like Green’s and Total Wine.

This makes for lots of price competition and a consumer-friendly environment if you drink wine or beer. However, it’s hard for small wine shops to stay competitive. I wrote recently about some new franchise wine shops that have opened in town. I wonder how they’ll fare in a saturated marketplace.

This statement from the article really caught my attention:

Unfettered alcohol sales in supermarkets and big-box stores would almost certainly lead to a great narrowing of the kinds of wines on offer—as happened long ago in southern states that deregulated wine sales.

I’m not sure I agree with this. Having lived in both North Carolina and South Carolina, I can say I enjoyed great wine shopping options in both places. As long as there are consumers who demand selection there will be retailers to fill the need.

Of course, the marketplace here is nothing like NYC, D.C. or San Francisco, but compared to other U.S. cities of a similar size, places like Raleigh and Columbia measure up pretty well.

While I’m a big supporter of privately-owned wine shops, they face the same dilemma as small bookstores. Increasing competition from the Internet and large retailers will force them to adapt or perish.

I love quirky shops packed to the gills with wine and run by enthusiastic, knowledgeable, wine people. I’ve always dreamt about having a place like that that myself one day. But I wonder what the future holds for such places.

Any thoughts?

Speaking of retail, I always enjoy reading the Wine Chicks commentary on the world of retail wine sales. I can't say I'll be missing that world this holiday season. I'm content to be a consumer.

A Virginia Gem

Another Thanksgiving is behind me and there have been several lessons learned:

1.) Don’t try new things on big occasions.
2.) Only cook one meal on Thanksgiving.
3.) Serve aforementioned meal early in the day.
4.) A meat thermometer is very handy when cooking a turkey.

As you might guess from these pearls of wisdom, I cooked a turkey this Thanksgiving. Without providing all the messy details, I’ll say that it was a decent first attempt. Brining my very small turkey gave it some extra flavor and kept it moist, and my recreation of my mother’s stuffing recipe was quite good.

Regarding rule #2, I had the ill-conceived notion of cooking two meals Thanksgiving Day—lunch and dinner, with dinner being the feast. So I made shrimp and grits for lunch. The upside of this is that I know my girlfriend and her son at least had one good meal.

Since it was a special occasion and all, we enjoyed a glass of wine with our lunch. And what a wine it was.

I have been trying to find more East Coast wines at my local retailers (without great success I might add). It’s unfortunate that I can buy wines from Washington and Oregon all day long, but finding New York or Virginia wines is difficult.

A quick look at a U.S. map is sure to make you ponder the logic of this.

Anyhow, I did find a bottle of 2005 Horton Viognier Tower Series. Wow. Let me repeat. Wow.

I know Horton and I know their reputation when it comes to viognier. Ol’ Slick Willy even thought enough of it to serve it at a White House dinner. Dennis Horton has been knocking out world-class viognier for many years now.

So, when I saw the bottle in Total Wine, I wondered what I was seeing. Horton viognier for $12.99? Could it be true?

The label clearly showed the Orange County AVA. This must be a second bottling, I thought.

Wrong. According to Horton, this is the same juice that goes into their flagship bottling.

Just the nose told me I was about to drink some killer wine. The aromas drifting out of my glass were pineapple, tropical flowers and lemon. The first sip revealed all that and more. Rich with white fruit, lychee and citrus, this is viognier at its best—voluptuous, stylish, racy and seductive.

I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s the best white wine I’ve had in long, long time. For the uninitiated, I’d recommend you hunt down a bottle.

Trust me on this one.

Notes from Delaware

I returned last night from a weekend of visiting my parents in Delaware. The visit gave me the opportunity to head down to one of the local beverage stores to hunt for new and interesting wines.

Like many of my fellow winos, I view traveling as an opportunity to scavenge local wine shops for new finds. Unfortunately, the TSA rules prevent me from flying home with wine, but it doesn’t stop me from drinking while I’m away. Well, nothing could really stop me.

We slightly altered our Thanksgiving plans to include the whole family, so we feasted on Friday night. There was the traditional turkey and dressing along with other dishes that were a mix of traditional and non-traditional.

My dad selected a cava for dinner. He picked one that I was not familiar with, NV Pere Ventura Cava Cuvée First Press.

Pere Ventura is a small producer, but one with an apparently rising reputation as far as I can tell. I couldn’t locate much information on them (in English anyway, and my Spanish is rather rudimentary). I can tell you that the wine was excellent.

The first press cuvée is often thought to be the best juice when it comes to sparkling wine. Not having tasted their other wines, I can’t say how it compares, but it stacks up nicely compared to other cavas I’ve tasted.

The Ventura was light and clean, with nice fruit and a hint of yeast. Firm acidity and low alcohol made it really sing with the food. Sparkling wine is such an easy match with so many foods.

Another great find was a local beer from Dogfish Head Brewery. This was yet another of my dad’s picks. To celebrate the settlement of Swanendael in what would later become Lewes, Delaware, 375 years ago, Dogfish has produced a Dutch-style rye bokbier, called Zwaanend’ale.

Boks are malty, bottom-fermented lagers. The Zwaanend’ale has a malty flavor augmented by flavors of rye and honey. It’s on the sweet side but nicely balanced and not cloying. An alcohol level of 8% gives it a bit of a kick also.

All in all it was a wonderful time. It met all my qualifications for a perfect holiday celebration: good company, good food and good stuff to drink.

Here’s hoping everyone’s holiday is just as good. Cheers.

Just Another Turkey

I was reading LENNDEVOURS very entertaining Thanksgiving column and realized that I must write a Thanksgiving post. All the other kids are doing it.

I haven’t had many traditional Thanksgiving meals over the past couple decades. I live far from my family and hate holiday travel. The years that I wasn’t taken in by friends, I always made due with my own culinary talents. Or I had frozen pizza.

At some point I realized that Thanksgiving was a great excuse to cook something that I really love and open a bottle of great wine. Sometimes I even invited someone else to dine with me.

For the past several years, I’ve been cooking the largest, primo fillet mignon that I can lay my hands on. I’ll whip up a couple extraordinary side dishes to go with and open something extra special.

This year, I’m not sure what I’ll be cooking. Fillets? Pork tenderloin? I’m only cooking for three, so a turkey seems a little excessive.

For me, it’s really not about what you cook—it’s all about taking time to sit down with friends, family or just yourself, and enjoying something that really makes you happy.

And take time to count your blessings.


As a former retail wine salesman, I have dispensed gobs of Thanksgiving wine advice. Here it is distilled to its essence:

1.) Drink what you like. If you like white zinfandel then it really doesn’t matter what the “proper” match is.
2.) Use some common sense. Delicate flavors need delicate wines. Bold flavors need bold wines.
3.) For a fairly traditional meal, I like Alsatian pinot blanc and Cru Beaujolais, particularly Morgon.
4.) Drink something sparkling. The ability of sparkling wine to pair with food is vastly underappreciated. A sparkling rosé is particularly good, or try NV Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut Cuvee—a really tasty sparkler with great fruit that’s inexpensive enough for company.
5.) Review Rule #1.

Something to Eat, Something to Drink

I don’t write about food very often, mainly because I don’t have much to offer that isn’t readily available elsewhere on Web from more knowledgeable sources. I will, however, share a bit of food philosophy from time to time.

Over the years, I’ve become more and more interested in sustainable agriculture and local food products. This weekend, I had the pleasure of indulging my interests.

Columbia has been recently blessed with an organic farmer’s market. It is a small (but growing) group of merchants who gather every other week to sell local products. The goods include local meats, produce, diary and other miscellanea.

I picked up some fresh shrimp, stone-ground grits, a couple of the fattest pork chops you’ve ever seen and bacon. I would have bought more, but my budget intervened.

The shrimp was wild-caught and beautiful. With so much farmed shrimp from overseas flooding the market at low prices, I have pledged to always buy fresh from now on.

The grits were from Anson Mills, which is right here in Columbia. They use the best methods, organic crops and heirloom varieties to produce some amazing products: grits, cornmeal, etc.

Caw Caw Creek is the source of the pork products. The pigs there are pastured, fed natural products and treated with dignity. My two goals for eating meat are: eat less and eat meat raised using humane methods.

I have yet to eat the pork chops, but the bacon was heavenly—full of flavor and wonderfully textured. We used the grits and shrimp to make—well, you know—which was very tasty. The grits take awhile to cook, but it’s well worth it. What can you say about fresh shrimp, other than “yum?”

We enjoyed a bottle of Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet Cotes du Languedoc 2005 with the shrimp and grits. Picpoul blanc is grown within sight of the local oyster beds, so it’s a natural match with seafood. It’s light, clean and fresh with tones of lemon and grapefruit. It’s also nicely dry and slightly flinty.

I’ve read about picpoul blanc, but this is the first time I had tried it. Picpoul de Pinet is one the named Crus of Languedoc. This was another great find in French wines. You can find it at Total Wine & More for $7.99.

Vive le Difference!

I’ve read some things lately, which have put me in the mind to drink more French wines.

The first item that stirred my interest was Craig Camp’s column on French wines. He touts the quality of French wines in the value category and has some harsh words for New World producers.

I used to drink primarily French wines, particularly inexpensive Rhone wines and wines from the Southwest and Languedoc. However, lately I’ve been drinking much more from Spain, South America and Australia. That’s where I felt my wine dollars were best spent.

White Burgundies have always been some of my favorite French wines, particularly the wines of Mâcon. There are several Macon-Villages that I think are some of the best values in chardonnay.

The other night I opened a bottle of Dominique Cornin Mâcon-Chaintre 2004. Chaintre is one of the villages of Mâcon, and Dominique is a newer, but highly respected producer.

This wine was a little more upfront with the fruit than I’m used to, but it had the elegance and style that I’m used to from Mâcon. The lack of oak influence makes chardonnay really shine. For my money, it’s one of the best expressions of chardonnay in the world.

The Cornin has a lovely bouquet of apples and pears; its flavor is more of the apple and peach with a lean, stylish feel and a creamy, honeyed finish. This is really tasty stuff. It was around $16 a bottle, which is a little more than I would usually spend on a Mâcon, but it was well worth it.

My other French discovery was of an A.O.C. that I was totally ignorant of—Cabardès.

"The western-most vineyard of the Languedoc-Roussillon and the eastern-most of the south-west, the dry stony soil and growing environment are ideal for low yield, top quality wine production. Cabardès is the only Languedoc A.O.C. to blend in equal proportions Bordeaux grape varieties (Cabernet and Merlot) with those of the Rhone (Syrah and Grenache)."

Never heard of it.

My education in French wines hit a plateau some years back and I haven’t been aggressive about moving it to a higher level. The other day I ran across something in a wine store that looked interesting, so I gave it a try. It was Château de Pennautier A.O.C. Cabardès 2004.

The combination of Rhone and Bordeaux varietals makes for an interesting mix. The Pennautier is dark and silky with great black fruit, soft tannins, spice and a long, caressing finish. For $11, it was a smashing find, and I’ll bet it can be had for less elsewhere.

The blend on this wine is 10% cabernet franc, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 15% cot (also known as malbec) and 30% syrah. With such an interesting mix of grapes to blend with, I am very excited about trying more wines from this region.

The other interesting article I read was in the European edition of Time Magazine. It discusses the French wine glut and how the French are handling (or not handling) the changing global wine market. Interesting stuff.

I was robbed!

Sunday night, FireFly Vodka had a launch party at Gervais & Vine. As part of the party, they also conducted a contest to name “Columbia’s Official Drink.” I was one of the ten finalists.

I did not win, place or show.

As soon as I arrived, I realized that my competition had put much more thought and creativity into their entries than I. However, my drink did meet certain requirements I thought should have been given more importance in the judging:

1.) My drink could actually be made in the average bar that does not routinely stock fresh ginger, Jello or other “non-traditional” ingredients.

2.) My drink can be prepared in a reasonable enough amount of time to satisfy someone who actually wants a drink sometime soon, as opposed to in three hours.

3.) My drink tastes good.

4.) Although it can be served in a martini glass, my drink is best consumed as a shot. If you know anything about Columbia, South Carolina, then you know that any “official drink” should be a shot.

In any case, there were some very interesting entries and a good time was had by all.

FireFly Vodka, as I have written about before, is infused with locally-produced muscadine wine. It is actually made in Florida, because of South Carolina’s archaic liquor laws.

The flavor is very interesting; there is definitely a grapey-ness to it. It would seem that this would run contrary to the nature of vodka, which is, by definition, supposed to be neutral. Eric Asimov recently posted an interesting piece on vodka and this very issue. Technicalities aside, I thought the FireFly was very good.

One side benefit of my drink-creating endeavor was the discovery of how very easy it is to make fresh sweet-and-sour mix. I will NEVER buy cheap-ass, artificial sour mix again.

For what it’s worth, my drink recipe appears below. It’s a modification of a recipe I used to enjoy back in the college days. I’m sure this same recipe is actually used in countless bars across the country and called various names. Like I said, not much thought went into this one.

The Garnet Fire (in honor of the garnet and black of the University of South Carolina)

1 ½ oz. FireFly Vodka
½ oz. Chambord
1 ½ oz. cranberry juice
1 oz. fresh sweet-and-sour mix

Combine ingredients in shaker with ice. Shake. Strain into chilled shot glasses, or strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish with a twist of lemon.

Fresh Sweet-and-Sour Mix

1 part fresh lime juice
1 part fresh lemon juice
3 parts mineral water
1 part sugar

Combine all ingredients and mix. Can be stored in refrigerator for a week or two.

The rest of the entries will be posted on the FireFly Web site.

Simple Pleasures

It really doesn’t take much to make me happy.

Sure, I occasionally dream of days and nights filled with Parisian fashion models, Veuve Clicquot La Grand Dame Rosé ’95 (exquisite, by the way) and meals at Le Bec-Fin (never been there). But the truth is, I’m pretty content with the basic pleasures in life.

I like to drink cold, cheap, domestic beer out of a can while I do yard work. I like Nathan’s hot dogs and Ore-Ida french fries (Golden Crinkle, of course). I like to sit on my front porch and drink Georges Duboeuf Cuvee Blanc when it’s hot outside.

I’m certainly happy that my tastes have evolved enough that I appreciate a broad range of sensory delights—good food, good wine, etc. However, a simple meal, a big glass of red wine and good company are among my favorite pleasures.

And that is exactly what I enjoyed last night. My dinner companions were E (my girlfriend) and S-May (her son). We had pork tenderloin marinated in Stubb’s Pork Marinade and Parmesan mashed potatoes.

Now, I can dress up pork tenderloin in a number of ways, but the Stubb’s is simply amazing. Easy and good—I like that. Matched up with creamy, warm, mashed potatoes liberally dosed with fresh-grated Parmesan, it was a delicious meal.

Of course, a good meal isn’t complete without a glass of wine. We opened a bottle of my latest bargain favorite, Hardys Nottage Hill Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2003.

Cabernet and shiraz complement each other so well. There are several Aussie cab/shiraz blends that make great everyday reds, but the Hardys is particularly good—dark fruit, silky tannins and hints of licorice and pepper.

Not bad for $5.99 at Green’s. I’m sure this is also a bargain in many other wine stores nationwide.

Speaking of cabernet/shiraz blends, there are two French blends that are worth checking out if you’re in the mood for something more substantial:

Mas de Guiot Cabernet-Syrah Vin Du Gard 2003

Mas Carlot Cabernet-Syrah Vin de Pay d’Oc 2003

Both of these wines remind me that there are still truly interesting wines in the under-$15 category.

Drink Up.

More good news from The New York Times. Apparently, there are some new studies that suggest a link between red wine and a longer, healthier life.

As a mentioned in an earlier post, resveratrol seems to be the substance that gives red wine its health benefits. One of the more interesting aspects of this study was the mice involved were given daily doses of resveratrol equivalent to the amount contained in 10 to 20 bottles of red wine.

Good God! I’m doing the best I can. It’s going to take some time to work up to that level of consumption.

On a more serious note, I’m glad to hear more news about the benefits of responsible drinking. Living in the South, I have gotten used to hearing alcohol demonized.

Wine, beer and spirits are all part of a healthy lifestyle if consumed responsibly. I’ve read about another study that suggested one alcoholic drink a day, of any kind, was linked to a longer life.

I think about these issues when I see my girlfriend teaching her 16-year-old son about wine and letting him taste wines. It stuns me that the same people who would condemn her for letting him taste a glass of wine or a beer, let their children chug-a-lug sodas loaded with high-fructose corn syrup.

Wine will lengthen your life; soda will give you diabetes, kidney problems and obesity.

Who's doing the right thing?

Coincidence? I Think Not.

Well, I hate to brag (not true), but I guess my blog is more widely read than I thought. Eric Asimov “coincidentally” just wrote an article on dolcetto in The New York Times. Hmm, where did I just read something about that delicious Italian wine?

I know! On my blog!

Okay, so Eric has probably never read my blog and most likely never will. It’s still nice to know that we are both talking about the same kind of wine.

Of course, his article has all kinds of “facts” and “interesting” stuff. Not to mention he probably gets reimbursed for the wines he tasted. At the very least it's a tax write-off.

Getting paid to write about wine—what a sweet gig.

I can always dream.